Hey Clucky Crew! Crissy O here, and I'm super excited to kick off a new series on the blog and on my youtube channel: hatching! Have you ever dreamed of welcoming adorable, fluffy chicks into the world? It's an incredible experience, and I'm here to guide you through every step, from choosing the perfect egg to watching that little beak pip its way out. So, grab your notepad, and let's get clucking!

Step 1: The Egg-cellent Choice (Choosing Your Hatching Eggs)

Not all eggs are created equal when it comes to hatching. You can't just grab any egg from the grocery store and expect a chick! If you have your own hens and a rooster then here's what to look for:

• Fertility: This is the BIG one. You need eggs that have been fertilized by a rooster. “Jiggled” If you don't have a rooster that has successfully “jiggled” a hen, you'll need to source fertile eggs from a reputable breeder or farm. Ask specifically or find on their ordering site if the eggs are guaranteed fertile.
• Cleanliness: Clean eggs are crucial. Avoid eggs with cracks, excessive dirt, or poop. A little bit of dirt is okay, but too much can introduce bacteria that will harm the developing embryo. Gently wipe off any minor dirt with a dry cloth – never wash them!
• Shape and Size: Choose eggs that are a normal, oval shape. Avoid overly large, small, or oddly shaped eggs. These can have developmental problems. Medium to large sized eggs are generally best. No I cannot guarantee that pointy eggs or more round eggs will determine if you get a hen or a rooster only what goes on inside it can determine that. 
• Age: Fresh eggs are best for hatching. The fresher, the better the hatch rate. Ideally, you want to set your eggs within 7-10 days of being laid. You can store eggs, pointy end down, in a cool (50-60°F), humid place for a few days before setting them. Turn them gently once or twice a day while storing.
• Source: Buy hatching eggs from a reputable breeder. Ask about their flock's health, the rooster-to-hen ratio, and their hatching success rates. Choose your breed of laying hen according to what you think will work best for you. Tons of breeds yield 200 eggs per year or more. Breed and size of egg will be something you need to consider. I'm more partial to certain breeds and mixed breeds so I'm not going to sway you either way because that would be unfair to you and what you're trying to do. Local breeders are a great option!

Step 2: Setting the Stage (Incubation)

Now that you have your perfect eggs, it's time to create the ideal environment for chick development. You'll need an incubator. There are many types available, from still-air to forced-air. For beginners, a forced-air incubator is often recommended as it maintains a more consistent temperature and humidity with easy water bottle for the humidity portion of hatching. 

• Temperature: The magic number is 99.5°F (37.5°C). Maintaining a stable temperature is absolutely critical. Use a reliable thermometer to monitor the temperature and adjust as needed if your incubator doesn't have a reliable digital thermometer but most you buy in the store or online do. 
• Humidity: Humidity is also essential. During the first 18 days of incubation, aim for 40-50% humidity. You'll increase this to 60-65% for the last three days (the "lockdown" period). Follow your incubator's instructions for maintaining humidity. Usually, this involves adding water to a reservoir. Make sure the water bottle that comes with your incubator is filled every 2-3 days to ensure it's working as designed. 
• Turning: Eggs need to be turned regularly to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell. Turn your eggs at least three times a day or ever 2 hours, ideally more, for the first 18 days. Many incubators have automatic turners, which are a lifesaver! If you're turning manually, mark one side of the egg with an "X" and the other with an "O" to help you keep track if you don't have an automatic turner. 

Step 3: The Waiting Game (Candling and Development)

Incubation takes approximately 21 days. During this time, you can candle your eggs to check on the embryo's development. Candling involves shining a bright light through the egg in a dark room. You'll be able to see the air cell, yolk, and developing blood vessels (if the egg is fertile).

• Day 7: You should see a network of blood vessels and possibly a tiny heartbeat! Infertile eggs will be clear or have a blood ring. A blood ring will be dark no veins and when you turn the egg it can slosh back and forth. 
• Day 14: The embryo is growing rapidly! You'll see more defined features and the air cell getting larger. 
• Day 18: The chick is almost fully formed and preparing to hatch. It will be positioned with its beak tucked under its wing, ready to pip.

Step 4: Lockdown and Hatch Day!

Day 18 marks the beginning of "lockdown." This is when you stop turning the eggs and increase the humidity. Get ready for some serious excitement!

• Stop Turning: Remove the automatic turner (if you have one) and place the eggs on the incubator floor.
• Increase Humidity: Add water to the incubator to increase the humidity to 60-65%. This helps the chick break through the shell. Be sure to check your incubator to make sure you need to add extra or not some will ask you to use a spray bottle and just spritz water over the eggs a couple times per day. So pay attention to the recommendations and manual of your incubator and make sure things are going correctly. 
• Patience is Key: Resist the urge to help the chick hatch! It can take anywhere from a few hours to a day or two for a chick to hatch. Let nature take its course. If you notice after day 3 that the chick is too dry or struggling you can carefully try to peel the shell off careful not to tear the white membrane because this houses veins and could make the chick bleed out. once you have peeled off enough of the shell leaving the white membrane in tact let the chick do the rest of the work. If you notice the chick is extremely struggling or too dry take a clean paper towel wet it with clean warm water and dab the membrane just a little bit. You don't want to cause the chick to drown not knowing where its beak is or the position of it. 

Step 5: Welcome to the World!

Once the chick hatches, leave it in the incubator until it's dry and fluffy. Then, move it to a warm brooder with food and water. I usually let them stay around 24 hours until completely dry. Be sure to wash your hands and dry them well before moving your chicks to your brooder with brooder light. You can use gloves if you're not sure of what to do. Make sure when handling chicks you do not squeeze them tightly but allow them to sit or rest in your hand without dropping them or letting them jump from tall heights onto the floor. Falling from tall heights causes injury and even death. Cradle the chick with your hand over the top of their back so their heads are exposed able to breathe then transfer gently to the brooder. They may stand or lay down so don't force either one. Once the chick feels it's feet on the brooder floor just let it go and do whatever it needs to do. 

Hatching chicks is an amazing journey! It's a testament to the miracle of life. Stay tuned for more CrissyO's Clucky Chronicles where we’ll talk about setting up your brooder and caring for your new chicks! Happy hatching!

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